Oh surfing how you rule me. How you make or break me. No matter how well I’m doing in life, I still need your approval. If you don’t let me have my way with you I feel less of a human being. If I don’t partake in you I feel irresponsible. Sometimes all I think about is you and it drives me crazy and other times I don’t think about you and it drives me crazy. Some times I love you and other times I hate you. As my body gets older it makes it harder to be with you and that makes me sad. Today I love you. Thank you surfing for my life.
Photo: Nick Borelli