Friday, November 21, 2008

Idle Hands

Photo: Nick Borelli
Design: Steve Thomas

The Devil will find work for idle hands to do

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Scratching Them Off the List

Words: Dustin Franks
Photos: Daniel Franks

In the midst of the winter doldrums, the travel bug had set in between a group of surfers, brothers and friends. An international jaunt to escape for a bit before the madness of a California Summer was in order and we were left with the task of deciding where to capitalize on a stirring Southern Hemisphere. The willing group eventually came about and when the tickets were finally booked, Steven Thomas of Santa Cruz, Grant and Andy Gold, and the three brothers Franks, Danny, Steven and myself, Dustin were ready to go.

Central America had proven itself time and again, and between the six of us, every nook and cranny of the chain-linked countries had been explored. The last on our collective list was Nicaragua. Surf tourism has been blossoming in the country for the past five years despite a tumultuous past and the expectations of fun surf, good accommodations and enough adventure to keep it interesting looked promising. Recent experiences from friends and fellow surfers had reassured the decision, so we took notes geared up and hopped on a plane set for Managua.

La Policia say, "Give me 20 bucks"

Steve Thomas With an Early Morning Fiver...Dang!

Driving in Third World countries is always a hair-raising experience, and our trip from the airport to the coast was just that. Having frequently traveled to Baja, our posse was heavily trained in the ways of Gringo extortion, keeping our loaded down 4x4 in one piece despite horrible roads, reading road maps in Spanish, and playing slalom with livestock. We ran the three-hour gauntlet and stopped in Rivas at the closest thing the region had to offer in terms of a grocery store.

The sights, sounds, and smells of the bustling city harped back to previous experiences. There seems to be a formula to which these types of cities are comprised of all throughout Central America. There's usually a large church, the token super market, hordes of street vendors, the cars with enormous speakers bungeed to the roof advertising God-knows-what at full volume, and more foot traffic than Times Square. Towns like this are everywhere throughout Latin America and always worth a bit of exploration. Cruising down the street is a shot of life and an immediate reminder that you're out of your element.

Steve Thomas Back snap

We hopped back in the car and arrived an hour later at the gates of where we'd be staying for the first five days of our trip. Nicaragua has been heralded as being "the next Costa Rica" and for good reason. Since the stabilization of the political climate, international investors have bought up land in prime locations and developed "haciendas" which offer up decked out surf pads, and community amenities. These amenities include the waves out front. There are two communities, which lie next door to each other and span about a 10-mile stretch of coast. These 10 miles contain 4 of the best spots in the region. Access is definitely an issue and the vehicle of choice for really being "on it " in terms of surf is the ponga. The variety of surf crammed into the countries southern stretch of coast is absolutely mind-boggling. With near constant offshore winds from sun-up to sundown, it really becomes a matter of what you feel like surfing that day. A beach break that looked like Puerto Escondido's friendlier little sister kept us content for the first five days. A big outer reef A-frame down the beach had us bouncing back and forth between the two.

Steve Franks Getting a Higher Perspective

Grant "Double-G" Gold Driving High on the Nose (Photo by: S. Thomas)

The typical evening found us back at our pad fighting off surf-comatose with cold beers and hearty meals (a la Chef Steve Thomas). Nights in Nicaragua are interesting. The daily offshores completely die, bringing the humidity level and bug population to near unbearable. The beat up roads and nightly rainsqualls made things interesting for getting around after dark, and make it easy to write it off. Not about to see what was really on tap, we usually defied good judgment and went cruising. We caught wind that the local cantina had satellite T.V.; we managed to leave the homestead and cram in with fellow stir-crazy gringos to watch the Lakers get creamed in the finals. The rousting was brought to a new level with our California posse on one side of the bar and some new East Coast friends on the opposite. Wagers were made, drinks were drank, and after the game it was nothing but handshakes and laughs. Another more adventurous night found us plowing through knee deep mud trying to find a little nook and cranny town where a friend from home had set up a surf camp years before. With crummy directions, some knucklehead co-pilots (myself included) and the blind-as-a- bat Grant Gold behind the wheel, we ended up pulling into a little town hours later that looked straight out of Pirates of the Caribbean. Beat down from the drive, we sat on the beach amidst the palms as our host treated us to a gourmet meal and some cold beers. It was definitely worth the drive.

While checking the surf one morning, we started conversation with local Nicaraguan surfer Ivan Saballos, who had gotten into the business of running charters throughout Nicaragua. We quickly got to talking about the region's endless surfing resources and he began telling us about the area's crown jewel; a shelfy, secluded left point break that changed moods with the tide and offered up the best waves in the area. Ivan Saballos and his partners, Armando Segura and Fermin Guerrero run, which offers up five star accommodations at some of the country's best waves. The trio had a few days before their next crew arrived and extended the utmost hospitality by offering to drive us in to the left point break they had been raving about. We immediately jumped at the opportunity.

Grind On

Obey My Monkey!

The next morning found me in the back seat of their car getting a socio-political science lesson on our way to what proved to be our best day of surf of the trip. Having grown up in Managua through the political turmoil, the three gave a stunning insight to the dark times the country had suffered and its gradual rebuild. During the 1980's, the country had seen a whirlwind of instability -- internally and externally. The Contras (anti-communist Guerilla later found to be supplied in a round about manner by the U.S) wreaked havoc on the Sandinista party and attacked from neighboring Costa Rica and Honduras. Meanwhile, economic pressure was placed from the U.S. in the form of a full-fledged trade embargo. Stories of blackouts, bombings, guerilla takeovers, dictatorships, and food shortages left me with my jaw on the floor. They explained how the country has had a gradual rebirth since the open democratic elections of 1990. Nicaragua seems to have it feet firmly planted again, and all three men seemed truly proud to show off the beautiful country and extremely grateful to see it flourish. As we pulled up to the picturesque cove, it was hard to imagine the chaos and bloodshed that had once ran rampant. I rejoiced with the crew as a flawless, empty left peeled off the rocks. We waxed up and scurried out into the lineup before our minds could wander back to more serious issues.

We jumped ship the next day to our second destination a little further north up the road. A warbly, shelfy left-hander that reminded us of Big Rock beat down in front of the house and most of our sessions took place at a wedging beach break up the road. The wave definitely kept us on our toes. The southern lines would bounce off a giant coral wall at a higher tide giving it a full-blown side wave effect. Head high, dredging tee pees dotted the seascape and we traded off waves with the local crew, some pro-shortboarders and some ex-pats that called the wave home.

Dustin Franks Getting All Emotional

Steve Franks Passing By

The remainder of our trip found us doing some exploring between sessions, lounging in hammocks, sampling the local cuisine and finding 400 different species of insects larger than a size 9 shoe and figuring out which ones you probably shouldn’t screw with. We made way too close of friends with small primates, drank beer and the finest rum in the land with our new Nicaraguan friends, and found a new shade of pink to apply to our skin. As our last night rolled around we went out in style and migrated to the more high class and touristy San Juan Del Sur. A huge fishing tournament had just ended and the town was going all out. We went out for the most amazing Italian food I've ever had (cooked by a pure blooded English woman to add to the irony) and had a full blown dance off in the local discoteca to close it all out.

The next morning found us foggy headed. We groaned as we packed up our behemoth board bags and tried to scrap together a pile of goodies to give to the locals in gratitude. Nicaragua had proven to be well worth the trek. We arrived back at the airport that afternoon itching to change our flights and figure out how to blow off the obligations of home. The good surf, warm vibes, and laid-back lifestyle was nearly impossible to leave. Surfed out, sore, and garnishing trophy sunburns, we hopped on the flight headed back to California, vowing to reinvestigate this little nook of the globe again as soon as possible. This name on the list was worth a second look.

Man and Oxen

Steve Thomas Driving to the Lip

Timeout for the Thizzle...What?

Steve Franks on the Nose

Male Modeling Has Had A Shadow Cast Over It for Nearly a Decade With One Man and 3 Syllables: Ste-Vie-Franks

Dustin Franks Getting A Lil' Loosey Goosey

Another Beautiful Evening

Dustin Franks Getting Deep...

When Asked What Super Hero Steve Thomas Would Like To Be, "He-Man, Master of the Universe" Was An Easy Choice

Dinner Is Served: Rice, Steak, and Plantangs

Dustin Franks With a Fat Bottom Girl

Dustin Franks On the Nose...Really?

Hit Lips, Not Ladies

Too Many Boards, Not Enough Seats

Steve Franks Laying Down the Law

Grant Gold "Wacking It"

The Rare and Endangered Nicaraguan Pig Dog

Dustin Franks Driving It Backside

Andy Gold- Boogie Boogie On Down

Steve Thomas Milking One Two The Beach

Steve Thomas Hyphy

Dustin Franks Releasing

Steve Thomas hit

Steve Thomas Launch

Monday, November 17, 2008

Winter is Almost Here

Photos: Nikki Brooks
Words: Steven Thomas

Wintertime is almost at full tilt. I love the winter in Cen-Cal. The Fog goes away and the sun comes out and the North West swells come down. A lot of people prefer to surf in warm water. I prefer cold water. I find it to be less cumbersome than all the sunscreen ointments, rash guards, and board shorts warm water comes with. I find that a wetsuit (my armor) and a Longboard (my sword) is a simpler approach to surfing. I know most would disagree and I totally can understand that point of view however its my subjective opinion on surfing that keeps me motivated to surf in the cold waters of my surroundings. One person’s hell is another’s heaven. Still where I live is a far stretch from hell, it’s much closer to heaven. It’s the perfect time for surfing in central California. Here are some photos of me by photographer Nikki Brooks.

Bottom Turn

Top Turn

Nose Ride

Friday, October 31, 2008

Quick So-Cal Trip.

Photos by: Daniel Franks

I went down to So-Cal a few weeks ago. The waves were small but fun. Here are a few photos of me taken by Daniel Franks.

High Noon at T-Street

Evening Spray little Lowers

T-Street is pretty fun.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Harely Ingleby Possibly the Next World Champ

Words and interview by: Steve Thomas
Photos: by Moonwalker

I was confused: I’d heard that Harley Ingleby was the Longboarding World Champion. Then I found out that Oxbow had coughed up some more dough and is now putting on a final leg of the Longboard World Championship tour in San Clemente Ca at a little beach called San Onofre. So it’s still yet to be decided.

Well, I hope Harley wins because he’s my kind of Longboarder. He can ride all types of boards, from long to short, very well. Also, it seems that he’s not picky when it comes to women’s features and has been known to say the C world from time to time like a good Australian should (I think its their god given right and I’m pretty sure it says that in the bible).

Soon we will find out if Harley is going to be the true world champion. But for now were going to find out his hopes for the longboard tour and some generalizations Australians make about Americans and what hell “get a root” means. So read on and familiarize yourself with the next (very possibly, really hopefully) world champion of longboarding.

ST: Where are you from?

HI: I’m born and bred on the north end of the Coffs Coast, NSW, OZ

ST: Are you the world longboard champ or what?

HI: I’ll let you know in 2 weeks, haha. No, it’s great Oxbow has stepped it up and given longboarding a multiple event world championship this year. I think it’s really great for the sport.

ST: What are your hopes for the Longboard tour in the future?

HI: I think in a perfect world for our sport we should have three events. One in a good big wave spot, one in a quality beach break like Lowers and maybe another at a great point. That way you would get a good, all around world champ. I think if there were many more events than that there might be a lot of longboarders that would struggle with the costs of a bigger tour.

ST: What have you been riding the most lately?

HI: I’d have to say my Robert August quad fish. Even when it’s been well over-head.

ST: Is it true that Vegemite was used by Hermes and Aphrodite as a lubricant when conceiving Atlantius? This Aussie told me that but I’m not sure if it’s true.

HI: Haha na mate, they are definitely pulling your leg there. They used Fosters.

ST: I knew that guy was lying, son of a…

ST: Hobbies?

HI: A bit of golf. That’s about it, really. Maybe the occasional skate.

ST: I like roller skating, too.

ST: What is your idea of good longboarding?

HI: Anyone that can make something hard look really easy, whether that’s big turns or nose rides.

ST: What are some generalizations that Americans make about Aussies?

HI: The most common that I hear on a daily basis here would have to be that we drink Fosters. I honestly can’t remember ever seeing that crap on tap at home - haha. Which I guess leads to the generalization that we are all a bunch of alco’s…

ST: Well thanks for clearing that up for me because I feel right at home with alco’s (as you say) and now I don’t know how welcome I’ll feel in OZ. Shit!

ST: What are some generalizations that Australians make about Americans?

HI: You are all loud and obnoxious, you’d use a shotgun to kill a mosquito, that you’re all soft (e.g. Your football players wear pads), what else?? Haha.
I think a lot of Aussies that haven’t been here look at Americans the same way you generalize Middle Americans: you’re all a bunch of rednecks.

ST: That’s actually 100% accurate. We love shooting stuff that’s small with oversized weaponry in helmets and pads while yelling,“WE’RE SO GREAT! LOOK AT HOW GREAT WE ARE! GREAT, GREAT, GREAT!” I think if the world would view us (Americans) as teens with a bad case of narcissism, followed by a heavy case of insecurity, with a dash of an inferiority complex, then maybe the world would understand a little better.

ST: Do you get shit for longboarding in your country by other surfers?

HI: Not really. Well not in an aggressive way anyway.

ST: That’s funny because I’ve been getting shit my whole life for longboarding. Maybe it’s just me.

ST: How many surfboards do you have?

HI: Well in my general quiver I have 7 shortboards, 10 longboards and my Alaia. But in my house there are well over 100 old boards in my dads collection which I drag out every now and then.

ST: What’s the size range in your quiver?

HI: 5’9 – 10’

ST: What are your favorites out of your quiver?

HI: Probably my two quads. Between my quad fish and quad shortly I can enjoy anything from 1ft mush to good 8ft waves, which we rarely get.

ST: Who is the hardest guy to beat on the LB tour?

HI: For me, I think Mouse (Mathew Moir). In the 4 or 5 times I’ve surfed against him I don’t think I’ve beaten him. He’s super fast and consistent.

ST: Just put a roofie in his cheese. That should do the trick.

ST: Do you say “cunt” all of the time? We don’t get to say “cunt” in America like you guys do.

HI: Why not who’s stopping you?? Haha - I’d be lying if I said I never ever say it but it’s definitely one for special occasions. It’s a pretty horrible word.

ST: It is a horrible word. I just thought that it was a great conversation starter in OZ. Thanks for clueing me in. However, do the women in Australia say “cunt” all of the time?

HI: Mate, if your girl is saying cunt all the time you know you’re on a winner.

ST: Thanks Harley, now I know what to look for in a woman. I’ll post that on and see what comes up. Lets see, the ad would go something like this:

Man seeks woman who enjoys long walks on the beach, candle lit dinners, romantic movies and, oh yeah I almost forgot to mention it, likes to say cunt!

I’ll let you know how that turns out.

ST: When women in Australia say, “Hey I need a good root” are they referring to a man’s lower abdominal member (or “dick” in laymen terms) as a part of some sort or tree or radish?

HI: I never really thought of where that term came from before but I recon that’s a pretty good guess. Only problem is I think guys use it more. “Ya get a root??” In which case, that wouldn’t really work. So, no.

ST: Maybe Australian guys should start saying, “Did ya plant your root?”

ST: Were you named after a motorcycle?

HI: I get this one a lot. Na, my olds aren’t closet Hells Angels or anything. I’m pretty sure they just liked the name.

ST: Shit, I thought that was an original question. There I go again thinking I’m so unique on my little unique island of questions. It is a pretty bad-ass name.

ST: Where is your favorite place to surf out of your country?

HI: Indonesia. It’s got a similar variety of waves to OZ and it’s cheap as chips.

ST: So what you’re saying is I can use a bag of Doritos or some French fries as currency to get to Indo?

ST: T or A? (Tits or Ass)

HI: I guess it just depends if the girl is walking towards or away from me. And after that comment they are probably mostly walking away.

ST: No, they’ll just walk sideways towards you.

ST: Sponsors?

HI: Golden Breed clothing, Robert August surfboards, FCS, Gorilla Grip.

ST: What kind of music do you listen to?

HI: Punk, rock, alternative - most stuff, I guess, that’s actually played by a band and not by a nerd on a computer. I’ve never been into rap, hip hop, techno or that sort of shit.

ST: I went thru this phase were I wore my rash-guards to clubs and listened to techno. I was doing a lot of drugs at the time but I’m past that now. Please don’t judge me. I’m a good guy. You’ll see.

ST: Who’s your favorite surfer?

HI: I have a few at the moment. Parko, Andy, Bonga, Dane Reynolds, Jordy Smith.

ST: Who’s your favorite longboarder?

HI: Bonga.

ST: Me too.

ST: I heard surfing is a big deal in Australia. For instance, if you’re Mick Fanning you’re a rock star in Australia. So my question is: you’re the world champ in longboarding, so do you get a ton of shiny hot ten ass for your statues or fat chicks with type two diabetes (sorry, I know type two diabetes is not really funny) like the longboarders in the states do? Be Honest!

HI: On the longboard groupy scale from playboy mates to big girls with type two, I’d have to say the later like here in the states. Actually I think you guys do a lot better than us on that one.

ST: What, like type three?

ST: Let’s do some quick Do’s and Don’ts for a surfer traveling in Australia:

ST: Don’t make eye contact with a kangaroo.

HI: I wouldn’t get in an up close staring match with a big male.

ST: Do you go to a random bar and invite an Australian to come stay over your house in the states as long as they want?

HI: A few friends I have here would now say don’t.

ST: Well, if you’re ever in my neck of the woods (by my neck of the woods I mean my neck of the woods) you have a place to stay.

ST: Anything you want to say to your fans?

HI: Hi, mum n dad

ST: If your mum n dad read this they probably won’t like you anymore.

ST: I just want to say I’m a big fan and I hope you keep it up. Thanks for your time.

HI: Thanks mate. I’ll be trying. Hopefully see ya in OZ sometime.

ST: Thank you. I hope you win the worlds. I’ll be rooting for you. Well, I’m sure you’re capable of rooting for yourself. Well, you know what I mean.

Driving backside.

That looks fun.

tube man or boob man?

Vegemite backhand long-dong snap.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Dustin "Big D" Franks

Interview by: Steve Thomas

If you want to talk about a multi-talented and hugely marketable diamond-in-the-rough, then Dustin Franks is the guy to talk about. Coming into the surf scene on a longboard, his ability transcends all sizes and shapes really well. What’s more, the guy is a phenomenal musician and not to shabby on the art tip. Well that’s all fine and good, but the best thing about Dustin is he is a straight up and down good guy. If you walk around his hometown of San Clemente, California, you will see that he is truly loved by his community. All walks of life know Dustin and he takes the time to know what’s going on with each and every one. The rad-ist part is that when this kid plays in his town he packs the house. I only wish there were more people like Dustin Franks in the world. Here is a long Q&A on D. Franks so you all can get to know him a little bit better. Make sure and check his space at so you can listen wile you read. Now Read!

ST: Last memorable wave

DF: I had a couple of gems on our last trip to Nicaragua that I managed to remember. The memorable ones are usually left tubers.

ST: Favorite food apr├Ęs surf

DF: I’ve been trying to get on the health kick, so I guess I’ve gotta lie and say a good wrap or veggie burrito.

ST: Do you think you could pray the gay away?

DF: I went to Catholic school from kindergarten through junior high. I know they sure as hell wanted me to think so. But, no, I don’t think you can.

ST: Breast fed of ass fed?

DF: Neither. What is ass feeding, Steve?

ST: Coffee, tea or me?

DF: I am my Mother’s son. She’s drank about 4 pots of black coffee a day for as long as I can remember. I closely followed suit.

ST: Black or with milky substance?

DF: Hot and black, baby!

ST: Does your family surf?

DF: My whole family surfs, some more than others. I think Mom’s in a close second behind me as far as water time is concerned.

Did your grandma surf?

DF: Definitely not.

ST: Describe your surfing.

DF: Errr…. I definitely took to the smoother, no bells and whistles approach. I always looked up to guys like Tudor and Curren and tried to emulate them, but have failed miserably.

ST: Do you play music?

DF: Yes’m.

ST: Why?

DF: It’s something I’ve always enjoyed doing, so I just kept with it. I’m still a novice in terms of “real” musicians, not surfer/musician standards, so there’s always something to get better at. It can be super challenging and frustrating, or the most therapeutic and relaxing thing in the world. I usually bounce between the two. Music makes people feel different things though, and I’ve always really admired how good music can impose a feeling upon other people. I’d love to get to the point where I could make something that has that same effect. I’ve got a long ways to go, so I’ve just tried to keep getting better, and it’s been a lot of fun.

ST: What are you working on right now?

DF: I’m almost done with a full length album. The opportunity to spend some time recording fell in my lap so I kind of pieced together enough material to make a record and worked with a very talented friend of mine. We traded off on computer and instrumental duties and made it work. It took a couple of months, but it eventually felt done. Now it’s just in the final stages, getting mixed and mastered and all the finishing touches.

ST: What kind of music bums you out?

DF: Over produced pop.

ST: What kind of music awakens the beast inside?

DF: I get absolutely fired up over good live music. The Replacements are probably my all time favorite band, although I missed my window to see them live. That’s what I would probably throw on if I wanted to get psyched.

ST: Tits or ass?

DF: I pay attention to inner beauty, Steve.

ST: Are you a showoff?

DF: I like performing well, so yeah, I suppose so.

ST: Do you wish you were an Olympic gymnast?

DF: If there wasn’t any sort of work involved in it, sure.

ST: Do you wish your girl friend was?

DF: That would probably mean she would have to be a 15 year old, disproportioned Asian girl, so, no.

ST: Have you ever partied with a midget (correct term: small person)?

DF: I was at a party that Wee Man was at once, but didn’t get a chance to say hello. I’m still looking for the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

ST: Commando or bathing suit?

DF: Does commando mean naked? I’ll go with bathing suit if so. I feel bad for anyone who has to gaze upon my bare ass.

ST: Why do they call you big D?

DF: Because it’s ironic.

ST: Is Franks your real last name or your stage name?

DF: Real deal.

ST: How old were you when you went big potty by yourself.

DF: 14

ST: Why do you Longboard?

DF: I’ve always been pretty lanky. I guess I just felt awkward on proper shortboards. They don’t really fit my style. I’m also pretty lazy.

ST: Do you have your own blog?

DF: Yeah, but it’s still barren.

ST: Sponsors (besides mom and dad)?

DF: Hobie Surfboards.

ST: You like trucks that drive in the desert or something. Tell me about it.

DF: I grew up spending lots of time driving around in Baja. You get beat to shit on the dirt roads and so I was always trying to build my trucks to make them a little more durable and that’s what the whole racing deal is all about down there. The cars are built to fly over 1000 miles of the most beat to hell terrain you could ever imagine. Racing is HUGE down there so you kind of get absorbed into it. A lot of the racing community is from San Clemente as well, and so I’ve always had friends that have been into it. I’ve ended up getting to go down for the races and help out a bit and ride in some cars every now and again since I was about 17. I’m a full fanatic now. It’s like my NFL.

ST: If you didn’t surf so much, what the else would you do?

DF: Bowl, drive around, maybe the occasional acid flashback.

ST: Mac or pc?

DF: Mac.

ST: iPhone or Blackberry?

DF: Whatever’s more durable.

ST: Norcal or socal?

DF: I’ve always called San Clemente home (SoCal), but I love going up north.

ST: What’s cencal?

DF: It sounds like a medication to stimulate erections, but I think what you’re referring to is the area from Point Conception to San Francisco Bay.

ST: And where is it?

DF: See above.

ST: I think I live there. Do I?

DF: Yes Steve.

ST: Dogs or cats?

DF: Dogs.

ST: Sneakers or shoes?

DF: Choose.

ST: Fullback or thong? Or nothing?

DF: Brazilian booty shorts.

ST: Bareback or saddleback?

ST: Bareback is for the Injuns.

ST: Giant Puerto or Mavericks?

DF: Both scare the living daylights out of me. If I had to pick one, I’d go with Mavs. At least there’s a channel there.

ST: Beach breaks or point break?

DF: If it’s hollow I’ll take a point.

ST: Chicken or beef?

DF: No red meat for this guy.

ST: Can you imagine being an Hipster vegan?

DF: I imagine it would suck.

ST: So you are a pro longboarder, what kind of art do you do?

DF: Avante garde fingerpainting layered with a multitude of mixed media. Usually things I collect out of the garbage from the local salvation army. It’s very organic in an urban sort of way.

ST: Favorite old skool surfer? 60’s long-donger

DF: Oh geez. I always thought Mike Hynson was a badass. I loved Carson’s noseriding, and then Nuuhiwa was a freak.

ST: Favorite new school surfer long-donger (don’t say me)

DF: Tudor.

ST: Any other sports?

DF: I played baseball religiously until I was 14 and hurt my arm.

ST: Did you play Tball?

DF: Yes.

ST: Did you lose?

DF: There’s no losers in T ball.

ST: Do you believe in magic?

DF: I’ve got a funny joke about that. Ask me next time you see me.

ST: How about aliens?

DF: The idea of aliens scares the shit out of me. My aunt lived in the same town where the abduction that the movie “Fire in the Sky” was based off of. She used to always try and get me to come up and I wouldn’t have it.

ST: Are we the only life form in our galaxy?

DF: Didn’t they find some sort of bacteria on Mars?

ST: What’s your token animal?

DF: I was born in the year of the dog, so I’ll go with that.

ST: If narwhals exist, why can’t unicorns?

DF: I actually captured and am dating a Jewnicorn.

ST: What’s under your bed?

DF: Hell if I know.

ST: How many surfboards do you have?

DF: Probably around 30 or so. I get a chubby over surfboard design.

ST: What sizes? From smallest to biggest.

ST: Everything from a 5’5’ fish to an 11’ glider.

ST: Of all of the surfboards that you have, which ones do you like/how many to you actually ride?

DF: I’ve only got a couple that I’m not really overly-fond of. I usually try and weed out the stinkers and replace them pretty quickly. I’ve got a bunch of boards that are definitely condition specific that I don’t really get to often but that I love having. I’ve got a beautiful 9’2” Ron House gun that I’m absolutely in love with that I’ve only gotten to ride probably 3 times in the 4 years I’ve owned it. I’ve got a 9’9 Terry Martin noserider that works realllllly good but only in very clean and lined up 1-4 foot surf. I’ve got a 6’9 widow maker that is one of my pride and joys that I break out when the surf gets big and clean around home. I’ve got an 11’0 glider makes it out for paddling exercise and when the surf looks like crap. I always have fun on that board. It’s really fast and actually turns on a dime, surprisingly.
My day to day boards for the past year or so have been a 5’10 quad fin, a pulled in 7’ egg with a rakey middle fin and tiny little side-bites, and a 9’4 log that has knifey rails that I pulled off the rack in Hobie. Between those three you can pretty much surf anything no matter how big or small and always be pretty well equipped.

ST: Being Fabulous: Ach-ya or nich nich?


Joel Tudor giving Dustin the Clap as he nose rides on by. Photo:P.Trefz

Little backhand tube at a point never hurts. Photo:Moonwalker

Big D singing his song. Photo:S.Thomas

Starting high going low. Photo:Moonwalker

Floating. Photo:Daniel Franks

Shade. Photo:Daniel Franks

Harmonize. Photo:S.Thomas

Barrels,Barrels,Barrels. Photo:Daniel Franks

Nride. Photo:Moonwalker