I’m so lucky to have a dad that I surf with. When I was little I actually didn’t like getting up early in the morning to go surfing in the cold water of Santa Cruz. Back then the wetsuits were stiff and I never had a very good one. What motivated me to break away from cartoons and sleeping in was after my dad and I would surf we would stop at this market on the way home and my dad and I would get a snack and talk about the waves we would catch. He would get a Fosters and spicy pork skins and I would get a soda and a king size butterfingers. That was my favorite part of surfing in the beginning. Here’s a picture I took of my Dad Chris Thomas surfing in Capitola California; the very place he taught me how to surf 20 years ago.
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