Words: Steven Thomas
Wintertime is almost at full tilt. I love the winter in Cen-Cal. The Fog goes away and the sun comes out and the North West swells come down. A lot of people prefer to surf in warm water. I prefer cold water. I find it to be less cumbersome than all the sunscreen ointments, rash guards, and board shorts warm water comes with. I find that a wetsuit (my armor) and a Longboard (my sword) is a simpler approach to surfing. I know most would disagree and I totally can understand that point of view however its my subjective opinion on surfing that keeps me motivated to surf in the cold waters of my surroundings. One person’s hell is another’s heaven. Still where I live is a far stretch from hell, it’s much closer to heaven. It’s the perfect time for surfing in central California. Here are some photos of me by photographer Nikki Brooks.
Bottom Turn
Top Turn
Nose Ride
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